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| typical village church |
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| at entry to ship's restaurant |
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| the drums |
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| our cozy cabin |
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| view of the cargo operations from the 9th deck bar |
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| The Aranui 5 |
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| at the "famous" Bloody Mary's |
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| our cabin porthole |
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| made me think of our twin grandsons |
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| making tapa |
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| Polynesian Night |
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| Bora Bora |
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| with Lyn and Paul Hoskins |
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| a private home on Bora Bora |
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| Moorea - first a van, then a takeout place, now an eyesore |
Our last day started with breakfast at our hotel, continental for Michael and American for me. We took a short walk but it was quite muggy and hot so that didn't last long. We reversed our trip back to the the ferry for Papeete where we were picked up and brought to our day room at the Tahiti Pearl Beach Resort. It's raining which is too bad because the pool looks quite nice. We ran into Pat and Nancy who were on the Aranui with us. They are from Iowa and know the town of Renwick, which I think is the hometown of our friend Phyllis. We'll see them again later at the airport for the Los Angeles flight.
I'm hoping once I get home with good WiFi that I can post a few pictures.
This has been a wonderful trip. We've met so many nice people from other parts of the world and I think it's so valuable to experience other cultures and see life from another perspective. You certainly realize how much you have to be grateful for, but also that there are other points of view. And even more importantly, you realize that we are really all alike in the most fundamental ways.
Today was Bora Bora, which is one of the most beautiful places we've ever seen. Another easy barge over to the town where we hired a taxi driver to take us and Paul and Lynne Hoskins, our Australian friends, around the island. It's not very large, so even with a few stops for pictures and a bloody mary at the famous bar, Bloody Mary's (who'd have thought), the whole trip took only less than 2 hours. I have never seen ocean water in all the colors there are here, from pale aqua to the deepest blue and everything in between. I hope our pictures do it justice. The ship held a barbecue lunch on a motu (small island) which I went to. Michael had arranged to see the engine room with the engineer so he stayed on board. Serendipitously, I ate at a table with John and Norma, the couple we first ate lunch with on embarkation day, but haven't had the pleasure since. The lunch was excellent and swimming in the water was heavenly. It was more floating than swimming because it was so shallow, but the fish you could see even without a mask were beautiful and plentiful.
For our last dinner they put on one final show with the staff and some of the passengers. Native drums play a large role in every dance and, once again, we managed to have the seats closest to them. I don't know how the drummers don't go deaf within a few years. But it was a lovely show and the crew really seemed to be sad to see us go.
Today we arrived in Rangiroa, the second largest atoll in the world. We barged in, which was the easiest yet since the water was like glass. First stop was at the Gaugin Pearl Factory which was quite interesting. They explained how they catch the baby oysters, since they aren't allowed to take them from the bottom of the sea. They grow for 2 or 3 years, then are seeded. The seed they use is mussel shells from the Mississippi which is sent to Japan for shaping before it comes to Rangiroa. After seeding, it takes 2 years to get the pearl. If it's a really good pearl, they will seed the oyster again and maybe even one more time. We watched a seeder and a harvester at work. Really good ones can do 450 a day. There's a store there, of course, and I bought a couple of little things.
Then we went to a beautiful beach for a little swim. The water was perfect, warm and calm. After lunch on board (quiche salad, lamb and raspberry tart) we had a lecture by one of the crew who started with Aranui at the beginning over 30 years ago as one of the cargo handlers. He's now on the hotel side of the business working as a guide, but still misses the old days slinging cargo by hand from the ship to the small boats for delivery.
Last night's dinner ( lobster bisque, fish and a pastry) was with 2 Australian couples that we hadn't eaten with before. Too bad, because they were fun and we would have liked to get to know them a bit more.
Tomorrow, our last day, will be in Bora Bora.
Today is a sea day so it's very laid back. There are couple of activities and a documentary this afternoon, but mostly reading and staring at the seas is the order of the day. There's a bit of rocking, but it's not bothering us. I'll miss the rocking to sleep.
The passenger mix is mostly Australian, then American, French and finally, German. When they give the briefing on the next day's plan every evening, the English speakers gather in the largest bar/lounge and the other groups meet in much smaller conference rooms. Usually the larger group went to the large restaurant in the village and the others went somewhere else because they couldn't accommodate all of us. Ships announcements were always French first, then English . I guess the Germans just had to figure it out.
On the other cruises we've taken there are always unhappy people who complain about the dumbest stuff. I've only heard two complaints here. I think these passengers are more adventurous and open minded. We just sort of shrug when things don't go quite as planned and accept it as life in this part of the world. The staff have been wonderful, always smiling and eager to make sure we are taken care of
Last night we returned to Nuku Hiva so that we could have the Polynesian night party in the calm harbor. This morning while they loaded cargo to bring back to Papeete we went back to the village and the cyber cafe. I was able to check email and update the blog. No more internet until Thursday, although I just learned that the ship had a satellite signal last night at 11:00 pm. Jeesh. They should make an announcement or something. (Just kidding)
Back to the ship to do another load of laundry and a little reading. During lunch (salad, roast beef and fruit pastry) we moved to Ua Pou again. The seas were the roughest they've been since the first day. We went back to the cabin and watched The Queen with Meryl Streep. Well, I watched it and Michael napped. We leave this afternoon and have a sea day tomorrow so I hope it calms down soon.
Tonight's dinner was the first meal that I didn't care for. The starter was a nice pea soup, but the fish entree was overcooked and tough and the vegetables were like a frozen mixed vegetable medley. Dessert was a nice mango ice cream custard thing. The seas have quieted some so tonight should be one of those where we're gently rocked all night.
We get small bars of soap and shampoo replenished. We brought our own shampoo but we still get a new one frequently. There are now six bottles in the bathroom. On the other hand, she took our slightly used bars of soap every day and once didn't leave a replacement. When I tried to tell her she could leave the used soap, I think she said that it was "required" that she replace it. So we started hiding the soap in Michael's dop kit and leaving the new one as a spare. Now she must think we never wash our hands.
This morning we arrived at the island of Ua Huka. The bay is very narrow so the captain has to do this cool maneuver where he drops the anchor, pivots the ship around 180 degrees, and then two motor boats tie us up to either side. We come within about 60 feet of the rocks on either side as we turn. The bay is rather rough so getting onto the barges is quite the adventure. The staff is fabulous. We walked down the gangway, which is a cross between a ladder and a staircase, and stood on the small platform at the bottom waiting for the moving ship and barge to be in sync. A staff member on the platform has you around the waist and two on board are there to grab your hands and pull you on when the time is right. Not for the faint of heart. We drove in trucks again to an archeological site for the dedication of a new museum. Dignitaries spoke for a while and then there was a Catholic mass on the grounds. We decided soon that it was a high mass because they sang all the prayers in Marquesan and it went on for 1-1/2 hours. We were sitting on rocks in the shade, not comfortable, but relatively cool when the breeze blew. There are several thousand sheep on this island and we watched a large flock wander the hillsides. Then off to a village for the craft stop where we bought a nice carved wood bowl. After a quick stop at a maritime museum (being generous withe term "museum") it was off to lunch at another local restaurant. We were each given 1/2 lobster along with the usual island lunch. I overheard one of the passengers say she can't eat coconut and doesn't like fish. She's come to the wrong part of the world!
After lunch Michael joined the group going to the botanical gardens and I took a truck back to the dock to return to the ship. Getting back on board was almost as exciting as getting off. Just happy not to lose my bowl.
Tonight was a lovely Polynesian night with a wonderful buffet on the pool deck. All the dignitaries were there. It started poring rain just as people got their food so we all grabbed our plates and ran for cover. It passed quickly and so on with the show. The rain came a few more times which was a shame. One of the dances included some of the passengers and 3 of our friends participated. They also called down all the birthdays and anniversaries and sang again to us.
Tomorrow is back to Nuku Hiva and Ua Poa, both of which have internet so I'm hoping I can publish a few days' worth of posts and catch up on email. Then no Internet until Thursday.
This morning we had a made to order omelet, which was a nice change. We barged over error to the village of Vaitahu on the island of Tahuata. There was a little craft market set up where the specialty is bone carvings using pig, cow or swordfish bones. After a short walk around the village, we returned to the ship. After lunch (roasted chicken) you could barge over to a beach for a swim, but we elected to swim in the pool instead. Then Michael hall napped while I went to a lecture on the different languages and culture of Polynesia. More similarities than differences, actually.
So I thought we'd have WiFi today to post yesterday's entry, but it was not to be. The ship's WiFi signal within the ship is fine, it's just not connecting to the satellite. Now I don't think I'll be able to check in for a number of days.
This morning the ship called at the port of Hanavave on the island of Fatu Hiva which is the least inhabited of the Marquesas with only about 600 people. We dropped cargo, then sailed around to Omoa for a visit and more cargo unloading by barge. This is where the ceremony for the new hydroelectric plant takes place. This plant will provide electricity to the whole island, rather than the diesel generators they use now. We barged over for a demonstration of tapas making (paper out of bark) and the traditional bouquet for the hair made from seemingly every flower and aromatic plant on the island. Back to the ship for lunch before heading back to Hanavave for a shore visit.
Hanavave is my favorite port so far. It's deep in a valley with the most beautiful mountains surrounding it. I've never seen so many shades of green. It was after 3:30 pm so the sun had gone behind the mountain bringing the temperature down to a manageable level. We saw a demonstration of making coconut oil scented with the local flowers and a dance show of 9 women and one man who did the hula type dances right along side them rather than the traditional male dances. No one seemed to care. It took only about 10 minutes to see all the village had to offer, but it was just delightful. The people are always smiling and I got a real sense of community, even more so than the other islands, which is saying a lot.
So I thought we'd have WiFi today to post yesterday's entry, but it was not to be. The ship's WiFi signal within the ship is fine, it's just not connecting to the satellite. Now I don't think I'll be able to check in for a number of days.
This morning the ship called at the port of Hanavave on the island of Fatu Hiva which is the least inhabited of the Marquesas with only about 600 people. We dropped cargo, then sailed around to Omoa for a visit and more cargo unloading by barge. This is where the ceremony for the new hydroelectric plant takes place. This plant will provide electricity to the whole island, rather than the diesel generators they use now. We barged over for a demonstration of tapas making (paper out of bark) and the traditional bouquet for the hair made from seemingly every flower and aromatic plant on the island. Back to the ship for lunch before heading back to Hanavave for a shore visit.
Hanavave is my favorite port so far. It's deep in a valley with the most beautiful mountains surrounding it. I've never seen so many shades of green. It was after 3:30 pm so the sun had gone behind the mountain bringing the temperature down to a manageable level. We saw a demonstration of making coconut oil scented with the local flowers and a dance show of 9 women and one man who did the hula type dances right along side them rather than the traditional male dances. No one seemed to care. It took only about 10 minutes to see all the village had to offer, but it was just delightful. The people are always smiling and I got a real sense of community, even more so than the other islands, which is saying a lot.
Today was an early start with breakfast starting at 6 am. Then at 7 am we barged a very short way to Puamau on Hiva Oa. We trucked a few minutes up the hill to the site of the Marquesas tiki statues. My favorite was the princess who died in childbirth and so was depicted laying down. Apparently dying in childbirth brings bad luck to the whole village, which seems sort of harsh to me. Then back to the ship so we can move to the other side of the island. We saw a large chest freezer unloaded so I'm guessing someone will be very happy today. We're so spoiled with 2 day delivery from Amazon - here they probably wait 2 months for their stuff. We've seen a few babies in disposable diapers which must be quite expensive. We've also seen lots of cell phones everywhere and all the teens have Facebook accounts, we're told.
Once on the other side of the island at the port of Atuona we were able to walk off the ship and get on large open air "trucks" that had wooden benches along the sides and down the middle. A 3 km drive took us to another restaurant for lunch. It was pretty much the same menu except this time there were a couple of dishes that had a much more Chinese influence. Then a ride to the cemetery where Paul Gaugin and Jacques Brel are buried. There were beautiful views from there. We walked back down to town and found the cyber cafe, of course. WiFi was very slow and I was only able to publish yesterday's post and read email before the signal was gone. Sorry I didn't get a chance to respond Jan and Sue. Then we caught the truck back to the dock. A swim in the pool hit the spot and then we watched more cargo operations. This was the biggest one yet. It looked like organized chaos with loads of locals coming to pick up their stuff. Individuals and businesses all sorting and loading onto small pickups or even into cars. Meanwhile passengers are coming through, chickens and dogs are roaming around and families have set up chairs to wait for their stuff.
Today the President of Polynesia got on board with about 20 people to sail with us to a ceremony tomorrow where they will open a new hydroelectric plant. Can you imagine, we didn't see a single security person doing advance work!
We ate dinner (tuna tartare, duck, strawberry shortcake) with Jeannine (husband John wasn't feeling well), Sue and Earl, and Ann-Meredith and George. The staff knew it was my birthday (from my passport presumably since we didn't say anything) so they sang the Marquesas birthday song and one of the women did a lovely dance for me before they presented the table with a cake. It was very sweet; the gesture, AND the cake.
This morning we awoke at Ua Pou. We were actually anchored most of last night at Nuku Hiva because these islands are so close, so we didn't sail until 3 am. What a beautiful island! Such beautiful green mountains running down into the gorgeous blue water. It's quite warm, but no rain. After breakfast (these chocolate croissants are going to be my downfall) Michael joined quite a few passengers for a hike up the mountain to a cross. I elected to skip that and went on a later barge into town. This port has a dock that is too small for the new Aranui 5 but they are building a new one. I headed right for the library for their free Internet and was able to post the last couple of days as well as check email. Daniel and Elizabeth's baby is still waiting for our return to make his/her appearance, Andrew is back home and has started his residency, and no news from Anna and her family or Michael's mother - so that's all good.
The town is tiny so I just walked around looking at the trinkets for sale until Michael showed up. There was a little entertainment at the open market and then off to a dance demonstration. Lunch at a local restaurant was very similar to yesterday, but better. It was so hot that we elected to return to the ship for a shower and a beer on deck nine while we watched the cargo movements and the dock construction. Then Michael napped and I went to a lecture about the history of the Marquesas which was interesting, and then put in a load of laundry. The ship includes laundry 3 times during the trip, but they don't do underwear or socks so we did those as well as some shirts.
Dinner was salad nicoise and pasta bolognese with some sort of tart for dessert. Had a lovely chat with an Engishman who retired to northern Scotland not far from the timeshare in Balater we stayed at a few years ago.
Earlier I said we had roast beef twice, but I should have said the second meal was pasta carbonara, also very good. We have no complaints about the food on board.
Today was Nuku Hiva. We tendered over to the beach in what look a little like the transporters that were used on D-day with the front that drops down onto the beach. Our landing was more friendly of course. Then into 4x4 pickups or cars for a long drive over the mountain to the archeological site. Then a bouncy ride down to the beach for lunch at Restaurant Yvonne. There were 5 courses - a ceviche type fish made with coconut milk, fish salad, fried fish (all delicious), goat (not so delicious) and pork (very good). There must have been at least 45 trucks for all 190+ of us, but our driver went to visit his family and wasn't there to take us to the next stop with all the others who all left of course. After a few phone calls by the ship's crew, he was found and off we went at break neck speed to catch up. One lane narrow mountain roads and speed don't make for a pleasant trip. One time he didn't even slow down for a sow and her 3 piglets, but swerved around a rooster, which are a dime a dozen here. Maybe he knew something we didn't.
At the little village there was a cyber cafe that would give you their password with purchase. I was able to check email and upload one day's blog. But I got confident and tried to include photos in the next blog and that messed everything up so I didn't get yesterday posted. Will keep trying on the ship or tomorrow. No pictures though.
We walked back to the ship which had come around the island to another bay near this village. There's a regular port here and the Aranui was delivering cargo. We had to walk among the containers and trucks to get to the gangplank. Another thing that would never happen in the States.
Had dinner with Charlene and Barbara (from NZ) again. Salad and a yummy fish pastry with ice cream and guava sauce.
Today was a sea day so it was pretty laid back. The seas are a little less rough, not calm though. Either I'm getting my sea legs or the ginger oil on my wrists is working because I feel fine even though we still have to hold on whenever possible.
There were a few activities but the most notable for me was the fashion show that I was recruited into. The gift shop had several of us model clothes and accessories that they sell. None of us tripped or had a wardrobe malfunction, so I'd call it a success.
The captain and his crew were introduced right before our fashion show. The captain is 37 and the doctor and nurse look like they just graduated from high school. I think they said the total crew is around 100.
We've now tried the Desperado, the beer with the dash of tequila, and declare that delicious as well. We are always served wine with dinner and it is always very good as well. Dinner tonight was salad, roast beef, and a nice dessert.
We woke up feeling less seasick since the seas were a little calmer - not exactly calm, mind you, but at least I was able to shower without hanging on the whole time. Breakfast was a nice buffet with fabulous French pastries. Uh oh – will have to watch that. We ate with a couple from Illinois, Ann Meredith and George. The ship was supposed to get to the island of Takapoto this morning, we would tender over and have a picnic lunch at a beach. Unfortunately the weather was still nasty and rainy so plan B was put in play and we had the picnic lunch on board. It was delicious even without the sand. Many people went onshore anyway but we elected to stay on board and enjoy the views from the bar on the 9th deck where it is surprisingly stable, perhaps because it’s in the middle of the ship. I had a local beer, Hinano, as recommended by Bob and Barbara who didn’t steer me wrong. Delicious. They also sell Desperados in one of the bars, which is a beer with tequila that Don and Brenda had in France and enjoyed. That will be next.
Dinner at a large table of Australian, New Zealand and American couples and one Russian man. Lots of laughs. The menu was salad, roast beef and a dessert that was good even though I don't know what it was.
WiFi on the ship is mostly not available, so that's a shame. Some of the island ports have WiFi so I'll update as I can.
Saturday June 11
Yesterday’s travels were pretty routine, fortunately. Our 3 flights (to Portland, Los Angeles, and Papeete) were all on time and our luggage arrived with us – always a good thing. It took about 45 minutes to get through immigration, customs and then the transfer to our hotel. It seemed longer because we were so tired after 19 hours on the road. We spent the night at the Hotel Tahiti Nui (nui means “big”) which was quite modern. The rooms are all off a central open air courtyard and there were almost no lights. Each room had a small blue light for the room number but that was it. It took us a bit to find our room. And the low lighting scheme carried into the rooms. I’ve never been in a bathroom so dark.
After a quick continental breakfast we boarded the Aranui just after 7:00 AM. Our cabin is quite cozy, but it will work. As we were still docked in the Papeete harbor the fire department conducted an open water rescue drill right next to the ship. I kept thinking that back home they wouldn’t allow a helicopter to hover for 30 minutes between two passenger ships that are about 200 yards apart. Fortunately all went well and it didn’t turn into a real rescue. We had a lovely lunch (fish salad, lamb chops and crème brulee) with a couple from Sydney, Australia named John and Norma. The seas started getting a little rough so we returned to the cabin and napped. Fortunately our cabin is on Deck 3 so the rocking and rolling is not as bad as in the balcony cabins above. At dinner time it was still rough so we didn’t go. Apparently only about half the passengers made it.
